Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO (Rakuten FWT) 2025 A/W (organized by Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO)) has reached its final day today. Here is a report on the highlights of the last day, including the brands that presented the night before.

• Brands that presented on Friday 3/21 –

KAMIYA (19:00～) City Circuit Tokyo Bay

KAMIYA’s fourth runway event was held at City Circuit Tokyo Bay. Drawing inspiration from “Messengers Style,” a photo book by Philippe Baiarobos that depicts the outfits of bike messengers (bike couriers). The runway was filled with bikers riding track bikes as if through the streets of New
York City.
Faded denim and vintage-inspired items are synonymous with KAMIYA. The realistic yet runway-worthy styling of balaclavas with caps and denim vests with fleece pants also shined through.
In the past, a large truck had appeared at the end of the runway, but this time the models appeared on bicycles giving them individuality. After the runway, the “KAMIYA gang” could be seen riding their bicycles on the circuit next to the runway.

paratrait (21:00～) TODA Hall & Conference Tokyo Hall A

paratrait, winner of the TOKYO FASHION AWARD 2025, held its first runway as a brand. The brand was founded by Shunta Sakai, who has previously worked for both British maisons and Japanese sports
brands, leading his brand to be defined by two contradictory axes: traditional wear design and sporty functional wear design. The inspiration for this season’s collection came from ancient Buddhism
and mountain worship in Kathmandu, Nepal. The idea of reincarnation, where death and life revolve around each other, is incorporated into the design as a moment where the end and the beginning intersect.
Illuminated by the lights, the outfits’ delicate expression was made by digitally transferring a sashiko design onto jacquard fabric. The final look of the series was a striped item inspired by geri, a traditional fabric from Kathmandu, Nepal.
In the middle of the oval runway ran a ray of red light inspired by Akutagawa Ryunosuke’s story, “The Spider’s Thread.”

– Brands presented today, Saturday 3/22 –

TAN (14:00～) TODA Hall & Conference Tokyo Hall A

TAN, winner of the TOKYO FASHION AWARD 2025, held its first runway show as a brand presenting a milestone collection that marked the brand’s 10th anniversary. The show expressed the scenery and scents of India that the designer had experienced during a trip there a few years ago, as well as the memories of the designer’s beloved dog. To express the rich nature of India, the designer attempted to create wild textures by applying foil printing and embossing to the knitwear. The skillful expression of the material, which did not look like knitwear at first glance, was an innovation unique to TAN, a knitwear brand that has perfected its techniques.The first look was a handknit
dress made of hand-joined yarns of Jacquard fabric torn by hand and yarns torn from printed fabric.
The special fabric, which looked like fine, shaggy threads flowing down, was made using the inlay knitting technique on a special machine of which there are only a handful of in Japan. The fluffy yarn, inspired by the image of the designer’s beloved dog, was used for various items such as a dog-shaped bag, cape, and gloves held under the model’s arm. The footwear featured on the models was made in collaboration with the Italian shoe brand Perico.
The knit on the upper and boot shaft was made by TAN himself. For the next 10 years, the designer is determined to transform the precious and beloved memories hidden in his heart into positive energy.

HARUNOBUMURATA (16:00～) kudan house

In the latest collection by Harnob Murata, the designer proposes luxury in intimacy. The brand’s show was held in the basement gallery space of kudan house, where guests could get up close and personal with the designer. This season’s muse was Dorothy Leavitt, a pioneering female racing driver from the 1900s. At a time when it was still rare for women to drive, she pioneered the future with her bold ideas and energy, her “driving spirit” was incorporated into the materials and silhouettes of
the collection.
Throughout the collection, eye-catching items were featured including wool coats and flared skirts that had been coated to give them an oily sheen, and cargo pants that had been washed to give them a used look; all made using strong, unprecedented materials.
The metallic parts that have come to symbolize the brand had been updated this time around with a matte look and industrial details.
The show’s music was also in line with the concept, a complete change from the classic mood of the past. The hard and jangly sounds of electronics and snare drums were combined with high-energy strings, deepening the collection’s mood of “industrial atmosphere in elegance.”
The music combined with the hard materials of the space and resonated with the movement of the fabric. The final touch of the aesthetic being the tense, concentrated stare of spectators. It felt as though everyone was a part of creating the elegance proposed by Harunobu Murata. It was an intimately shared experience.

©courtesy of brand

FURUMAU (18:00～) Online presentation

This season, CHONO has rebranded to FURUMAU to make a fresh start, establishing CHONO as a textile brand, while FURUMAU offers high-quality clothes that are both glamorous and easy to wear, combining the classic with modernity. This season, under the theme of “furumau,” the brand’s name, which has various meanings, such as “to act in a certain situation to give a certain impression to onlookers,” or “to offer hospitality or provide a feast.” The brand has created wear that brings out the essence of the wearer and allows them to behave as they are. Attention to fabrics could be seen everywhere, such as fabrics with a mix of Tyrolean tape and fringe, and quilts made of highdensity nylon taffeta with pin-dot embroidery of star patterns.
In addition to the quality label, the products beared the names of the fabric, sewing, and quality control technicians themselves, attesting to the many craftsmen who made them.

©NECT Design Co.,Ltd

KEIKO NISHIYAMA (19:00～) Online presentation

Inspired by “Wunderkammer” (cabinets of curiosities), Keiko Nishiyama presenteed textiles with fantastical prints. This season, the designer followed the theme of”Reminiscence,” delving into the invisible world of human memories and recollections.
The brand’s iconic elements including graphics of imaginary plants and animals, were subdued in color and used as accents to c reate designs that fit more into everyday life. In addition to the decorative approach of the past, this season the brand developed new masculine silhouettes and items with a genderless appearance.
Items were also released in collaboration with Mimaki Engineering, a company that makes industrial inkjet printers.

©courtesy of brand

Tamme (21:00～) TODA Hall & Conference Tokyo, Hall A

Tamme, a winner of the TOKYO FASHION AWARD 2025, held its first runway as a brand. A YouTube-live archive is available from the link above. More details of the show will be in the report to be distributed at a later date.

Buyers, journalists and other international guests visit Japan

(From left to right)
Andreas Murkudis (Buyer and Owner of “Andreas Murkudis”), Sydney Boiron (Fashion and Web
Editor of Mixte Magazine), Manuel Marelli (Buyer and Head Creative of MACONDO STORE),
Nick Wooster (Brand Advisor, TFA Jury), Alex Catarinella (Freelance Writer)

Press and buyers from overseas visited Fashion week in Tokyo this season as well. In addition, a support program was also implemented from this season, the guests visited actively the runway shows and exhibitions, where they interacted directly with Japanese brands and designers.

* All photos with some exception are property of ©JFWO.