Today marked the fifth day of the 2026 S/S season for Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO (Rakuten FWT) (organized by the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO)).

– Brands that presented on Thursday, September 4th –
FDMTL (Fundamental) (From 8:30 PM) Shibuya Hikarie Hikarie Hall Hall A

In the recent release, designer Gaku Tsuyoshi commented “I always felt unworthy of calling myself a fashion designer, and I’ve continually had a sense of discomfort with the term.” Despite being a veteran celebrating his brand’s 20th anniversary, his demeanor remains profoundly humble. Yet, the garments he creates possess a firm conviction that can only be born from a deep mastery of materials and patterns.

The theme for this season’s third show presentation was “Echo of [ ]”. Centered around denim and indigo, it embodied the “kodama (echoes)” of creation freely expanding from these core elements. By deconstructing and recombining the patterns of jackets and pants, new forms were born.

The patchwork outerwear and pants, resembling rags at first glance, are actually transfers of rag patterns from Tsuyoshi’s collection. The model was clad in indigo-dyed Vans shoes, a collaboration he has been working on since 2015, incorporating pieces from his 10-year archive. The looks concluded with heavily distressed denim, seemingly visualizing reverberating sound.

At the venue’s center, the band “ichikoro,” featuring vocalist Enon Kawatani (known for his work with Gesu no Kiwami Otome), performed live. Their emotionally charged music, resonated deeply through mind and body, echoing the powerful, blue-hued show’s lingering reverberations.

*Incubation Show
MARRONNIER COLLEGE OF FASHION DESIGN 2026 S/S Collection (From 3:30 PM) Shibuya Hikarie, Hikarie Hall, Hall B

As part of JFWO’s recent focus on fashion incubation activities, starting this season, shows primarily featuring students and school groups who will lead the future fashion industry were designated as “Incubation Shows.”

This time, Marronnier Fashion Design College, celebrating its 76th anniversary, held a show following the 25 S/S season. To capture the theme of “Fusion,” the students themselves took on the role of producers, each presenting one original work. The show overflowed with the students’ uniquely free-spirited creations, bringing a fresh breeze to the midpoint of Fashion Week. Works were displayed in the foyer, where students also gave presentations to visiting fashion industry professionals. We look forward to seeing them return to the stage as designers for brands featured on the official schedule someday.

*Partnership Show
PH MODE x TYO by MFF (Manila Fashion Forward) (From 1:00 PM) Shibuya Hikarie, Hikarie Hall, Hall B

Founded in 2014, MFF is the Philippines’ leading fashion week, participating in Rakuten FWT since 2022. This season, using cutting-edge Japanese fabric printing technology, the show featured fabrics printed with artwork provided by up-and-coming Filipino visual artists such as Maria Angelica Tan and Monica Castillo.

Four participating brands were the Philippines’ .ARCHIVES, ALODIACECILIA, Maison Métisse, and Japan’s Uttrykk. Sustainable initiatives were evident in the clothing, including the use of fabrics made from banana fiber.

Coconut-based products and textiles shown in the show were on display in the foyer, and traditional Filipino food and drinks were served after the show to welcome visitors.

“MITSURU OKAZAKI” GOBLIN. (From 2:30 PM)
Kitasando Store 2nd

A faint whistling breeze carries the sound of a gentle wind as models slowly walk the runway. Their figures seem fragile, yet filled with a pure radiance. The inspiration came from Paullo Coelho’s novel “The Alchemist.” Designer Mitsuru Okazaki stated he “wanted to capture boyhood,” in his collection, depicting a boy who had given up on his dreams but rises again and grows.

Jackets and pants featured circular cutouts, symbolizing gaping holes in the heart. To fill these voids, the original pieces and the body were connected with marukan (a type of stitch), evolving the brand’s signature detail.

Motifs from the book—camels, churches, and pyramids—are embroidered in sparkling gold thread on the backs of jumpers, further capturing the theme’s worldview.

Chika Kisada (From 4:00 PM)
THE FACE DAIKANYAMA

Chika Kisada pursued the “ideal body shape” in her collection. Traces of bodily movement and memory were brought to light through deformed silhouettes and delicate yet boldly crushed fabric textures. The theme in this series is “Trace.”
Overlaying the unsettling melody of string instruments in the venue was a fast beat reminiscent of a dance floor. The sounds came together to evoke a landscape as if seen in stop motion, like a series of strong flashes. It evoked the experience of viewing vivid instances burned into the mind as an afterimage.

©chikakisada

Tights and T-shirts torn with reckless abandon, sequin skirts with raw-cut hems, shirt dresses pieced together like fragments of youthful memories. Last season’s passionate expressions were transmuted into a more subdued yet solid tone this season.

The toe-shoe-shaped bag introduced in 25A/W welcomed new canvas colorways this time around. A black cat charm, likely inspired by the designer’s beloved feline, added a touch of humor to the collection. New footwear additions included mules adorned with body piercings and tulle-accented thong sandals.

What is the “ideal body shape”? A small butt, a slim waist, moderate curves? Perhaps beauty that deviates from such stereotypes can be found in the “traces” of our own lives.

Support Surface (From 6:30 PM)
Warehouse Terrada G1-F5

At the support surface show, a release made of frosted glassine paper printed with words from designer Norio Surikabe was distributed. These phrases, distinct from the theme yet capturing the mood of the moment, possed the same dignified presence as the garments themselves. “quiet sparks: flashes lurking in the reverberations of stillness, draped in seasonal hues.” This phrase and the look photos alone captured the theme so well, they might suffice as the entire explanation of the collection.
The first look presented something untraditional for the brand, utilizing a realistic print. It boldly featured a botanical pattern reminiscent of old plant guides, with a sinister undertone.

“I thought it would be nice to have something vibrant in this quiet, slow-flowing space,” stated designer Surikabe. Eye-catching colors like fluorescent green and vivid purple were paired with pure white items. But rather than a shocking contrast, the impression was refreshing and artistic.

“I realized once again that I want to create things that are ‘this’ good, not just ‘good enough,’” the designer stated. Rather than pandering to trends, the designer continues to create beautiful things that he himself desires to make.

Influencers invited by “Pickyou” will be posting about the shows

Continuing on from last season, we’ve teamed up with C2C marketplace “Pickyou” to share real-life Rakuten FWT news from a Gen Z perspective.

This time, fashion influencers selected by Pickyou will be invited to attend the shows of 16 brands. Each influencer will post about the show and their styling on their own account.

A variety of drinks distributed at the official venues

At the runway events held at the official venue, Shibuya Hikarie’s Hikarie Hall, we are distributing Red Bull energy drinks, lightly carbonated beverages “kiyasume,” and original label water featuring the key visuals for Rakuten FWT. With the heat still lingering, pleople  enjoyed Fashion Week while staying hydrated and nourished.

JFW 20th Special Ambassador Hio Miyazawa visits the event

Actor Hio Miyazawa, who has been appointed as a special ambassador for JFW’s 20th anniversary, attended the FDMTL show held on Thursday, September 4th clad in a full FDMTL set.
His comments after the show will be posted on the Rakuten FWT official Instagram account (@rakutenfwt) at a later date.

*With some exceptions, all photos are taken by ©JFWO.