Black by VANQUISH

Designer

Hayato Shiroyama

Brand information / About the designer

―What inspired you to become a fashion designer? Describe developments leading up to the brand launch.

Joined the beauty industry after graduating from high school, but transferred to the apparel industry after being influenced by “Ryo Ishikawa” who created “VANQUISH”.
After graduating from Nagoya Designer Gakuin, joined Ceno Company, Ltd. After working as the shop manager, became the designer for “MURDER LICENSE” in 2008.
Became the creative director in 2013.
Renewed the brand name to “Black by VANQUISH” from the 2015 A/W collection which marks the 10^th anniversary of “MURDER LICENSE”.

―What is the brand’s concept? What do you want to communicate through fashion designing?

The concept of “Black by VANQUISH” incorporates color, design and materials of the time into a world of black and white and pursues stylish silhouette and cuts. New real clothes style is proposed every season.
It is hoped that men can become attractive both on the outside and inside by wearing clothes of “Black by VANQUISH” and have style that attracts both men and women.

―What is your source of inspiration in creating fashion? What is your process of developing a design concept?

I value inspirations I get at the moment. When I have free time, I walk among the crowd in the city, through alleys that I have never been to and around the downtown area at night, and feel the people, air and sound and find new discoveries and excitement.
I also regularly go to the sewing factory and processing factory to see the production process and learn from craftsmen in the field. Such experience changes its form in my mind, which helps standard items evolve every year. While I think this year is the best every year, I continue to evolve the following year.

―Who are your current stockists (areas, retail formats, etc.)? Describe the typical followers of your brand.

We have 10 directly-operated stores in major cities (Tokyo, Osaka, Aichi, Fukuoka, etc.). We also distribute products to select shops around Japan.
Many of our customers are around 22-26 years old, centering on an age group which is able to spend more money on their hobbies after graduating from college and starting to work. The tight silhouette which emphasizes one’s figure and is uncommon to brands intended for the mass is especially popular.

―Which brands, designers, styles and cultures have had the most impact on your fashion designing, and why?

I was most influenced by “Ryo Ishikawa” who is the CEO of Ceno Company, Ltd. and the director of VANQUISH.
After graduating from high school, I joined the beauty industry. As I was set out to become a hairdresser, I took a strong interest in clothes, but it was difficult to find items that I truly desired. That is when I saw the brand handled by “Ishikawa” at the time. As I purchased 2 colors of the same product of the brand, I began wanting to “create clothes that attract people like this”.
Although I knew nothing about how I could become like “Ryo Ishikawa”, I quit the beauty industry where I worked in for 2 years and started working night shifts at a factory and part-time during the day. I saved up money and entered a school for clothing design to become a designer. The brand I created has now changed its name to “VANQUISH”. At the time, I never thought I could work under Ishikawa and handle a brand. I am very grateful.

About 2015-16 A/W collection

―Why have you chosen Tokyo (or MBFWT) as the venue for presenting your collection?

“MURDER LICENSE” marked its 10th anniversary in 14A/W. The brand name was changed to “Black by VANQUISH” from 15A/W with a vision of global launch. To show our determination, we will participate in “Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo 2015-16 A/W”.

―What is the concept / image for your brand’s 2015-16 A/W season?

The theme is “CHANGE”.
We have a strong determination to break up the formula that MURDER LICENSE established in the past 10 years and be born again. We hope to express various aspects seen in Tokyo such as hope, solitude and fighting spirit.

―What is your vision for your show / installation?

We hope to create a show that expresses the brand image to the fullest.

Future

―What are your brand’s future outlook and goal?

We plan on establishing a share in Japan and offering a place where overseas buyers can see our brand so as to globally launch our brand inside and outside Japan.

About TOKYO

―What does Tokyo represent for you?

There is hope, but there is also despair. It is a city full of dreams.

―Which parts / sites of Tokyo do you like most? Why?

My favorite area is Shinjuku.
There are various human events and the underground atmosphere felt there becomes an inspiration.

―What are your favorite / recommended shops (of any genres, e.g. fashion stores, homeware stores, food services), facilities and sites?

YOGORO in Harajuku

Newcomer brand questionnaire | Black by VANQUISH