“PHOTOCOPIEU” is a brand defined by a heartfelt and genuine commitment to creating exceptional clothing. This dedication shines through every garment, collection, interaction, and the brand’s overall identity. Its authentic and empowering philosophy instills a sense of elegant strength in the women who wear it. Since debuting in the Autumn/Winter 2019 season, the brand has steadily expanded its retail presence and is now exploring opportunities for international growth as it moves to the next stage. We had the opportunity to speak with designer Misa Takeuchi about the brand’s journey to date and its future ambitions.

Could you share the background and inspiration behind starting the brand?

While working in France, I often felt the need to counterbalance my petite and seemingly delicate appearance through clothing. To feel stronger, I created a silk dress for myself. Wearing that dress frequently drew compliments from friends, which encouraged me to start making dresses for them, incorporating my own adjustments…and over time, I found myself creating several black dresses based on this concept. This experience inspired me to launch my brand after returning to Japan. I held my first exhibition in February 2019, and this year marks my fifth anniversary.

In what ways has the brand evolved over the past five years?

I began with the concept of a strong woman who embodies the independence and intelligence often associated with French women. However, when I started considering an international audience, I re-evaluated how to convey this vision. This season, I came to realize that the ideal woman balances strength with a lack of restraint. I continually aim to refine each collection by reflecting on the previous season, allowing the creations to evolve over time. For the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, showcased in Paris in September 2024, my goal was to design a collection that truly emphasizes the dresses themselves. The focus is on a pure, intentional design approach rather than prioritizing simplicity or marketability.

paris showroom / Photography by Kazumi Miyamae

What aspects are you focusing on in the manufacturing process?

I have always valued and sought to maintain the process I learned in France, which involves cutting rectangular fabric and shaping it around the body to create unique silhouettes. While I initially enjoyed exploring the fabric’s properties to craft three-dimensional cuts, working with Isabel and Veronique has deepened my understanding that “creating silhouettes = making great clothing.” I believe this approach is integral to the brand’s identity.

Your brand is renowned for its striking dresses, but what does a dress mean to you?

A dress, with its waist, shoulders, and sleeves, is one of the most fascinating and enjoyable pieces of women’s clothing to design. I also believe that achieving the same level of precision in dresses as seen in men’s tailored jackets could contribute to gender equality. For instance, the meticulous craftsmanship in men’s jackets compared to the often less-detailed approach to women’s jackets reflects a societal notion that “this is good enough for women,” which is a misconception. I aim to challenge the societal belief that women should settle for clothing that simply appears authentic, and I am committed to creating garments that are genuinely high-quality rather than relying on superficial imitations.

Who are the main customers of your brand?

While women’s fashion trends often shift each season, our customers are those with a consistent personal style who feel that PHOTOCOPIEU pieces complement it perfectly. Instead of the clothing being overly bold or attention-seeking, many of our customers receive compliments like, “You look wonderful today” when wearing PHOTOCOPIEU. Hearing this brings us great joy as a brand.

Photography by Harumi Obama

Please tell us about your current business situation.

Domestically, we are represented in 26 accounts, while internationally, we have two accounts in Los Angeles and South Korea. As a brand that prioritizes silhouettes, we face challenges with size variations overseas. However, during our Paris showroom, we discovered a promising international market that values our dedication to craftsmanship and high-quality fabrics. We plan to expand gradually in the future.

In March 2024, you presented your collection in an “installation format” at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO. Looking back now, how do you feel about this presentation?

Looking back, I feel it was incredibly beneficial to communicate directly with customers rather than relying solely on retail partners. The theme of the presentation, “Love for those Often Forgotten,” focused on highlighting ordinary people in their daily lives. We presented PHOTOCOPIEU clothing as attire suitable for everyday scenarios, like picking up children or running errands. By displaying the clothing on mannequins rather than models, I aimed to create a space where viewers could see themselves or someone they know, making the experience more personal and open to varied interpretations depending on the individual. As events and shows typically emphasize glamorous and eye-catching elements, showcasing everyday clothing offered a refreshing change that received very positive feedback. This experience also highlighted the potential of presentations. While we currently rely on text and photos on social media to showcase our collections and product images, we hope to create spaces in the future, such as photo exhibitions, where we can directly present styling ideas and share our vision for society and women’s comfort in daily life.

PHOTOCOPIEU 2024 A/W collection

What is your outlook for the brand moving forward?

My aim is to establish direct connections with those who wear our clothing and create a system that truly resonates with them, breaking away from the limitations of conventional fashion business models and norms.

What challenges would you like to take on as a designer?

I have no experience with collaborations so far, but this is something I would like to try. I am also interested in working on shoes and leather accessories.

Photography by Harumi Obama

INTERVIEW by Tomoko Kawasaki