Celebrating its 35th anniversary this year, TSUMORI CHISATO will take part in Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO for the first time this 26S/S season. On the eve of its highly anticipated return to the runway in 7 years, we spoke with designer Chisato Tsumori—who says her enduring love of fashion and the support of many people have sustained the brand until now—about how she’s feeling ahead of the show.

What made you decide to take part in Rakuten Fashion Week with your first runway show in 7 years?

I was debating whether to share this, but I was being treated for a serious illness. Really, it was life-threatening, and so when my condition started to improve last year, I felt as though I had been given another chance at life. We can never predict what will happen at any moment. I have a strong desire to express my gratitude to everyone and everything that has been involved in the brand and carried us through these 35 years. That’s what led me to decide to participate in Fashion Week this year and share that gratitude with people in the form of a show.

What is the theme of your 26S/S collection?

The theme of the collection itself is “gratitude.” It’s only through the support of so many people that the brand has been able to continue for 35 years. The show will reflect this theme of appreciation for all through things like the earth, the sun, rainbows, and water—the elements that make us feel wonderfully blessed as humans. This approach is different from our usual collections, and even now, as I prepare, I’m still working through the best way to bring it all together.

Can you tell us more about your concept for the show itself?

I want the show to embody the playful spirit of TSUMORI CHISATO and bring joy to the audience. It will take place right here in this store, a relaxed setting where we can be ourselves. I’ve presented on many grand runways before, but this time I wanted to highlight the structure of the building itself, which feels aligned with my current outlook. Since becoming independent from A-net in 2019, we’ve focused on sustainability and shifted to made-to-order production. I think of it as creating haute couture for our clients each season. This season’s show will run several times throughout the day—including one for our customers—and afterwards, there will be an opportunity to place orders online (*1). I put my own sense of gratitude into everything I create, but I hope people will feel free to interpret it in their own way.

What challenges have you faced in staying true to the TSUMORI CHISATO spirit for 35 years?

My approach really hasn’t changed at all. I’ve always loved to draw and make things. I love using color and challenging myself in new ways. That hasn’t changed in all this time. We’re also hosting a 35th anniversary exhibition event at Shibuya Hikarie (*2), so I’ve been digging through our old collections. When I look at these older pieces, there’s no disconnect with what I’m making right now—I’d still wear them today. People have described my style as a “toy box flipped upside down,” and I think that’s exactly right. I used to create extremely detailed pieces that wouldn’t be possible today. The exhibition will feature about 170 looks from our 35-year archive, and some are so elaborate that I look at them and wonder, “How was this possible?” I hope visitors notice that. Sadly, fewer weavers, knitters, and sewing factories remain today, but I hope this exhibition reminds people that there were once factories with such incredible craftsmanship and technique.

35th Anniversary TSUMORI CHISATO ♡♡ GRATITUDE ♡♡♡ Special exhibition showcasing 35 years of TSUMORI CHISATO’s creative vision

Has your drive to create changed?

I have many interests, and I’m the type that’s always looking for something exciting. If I come across an interesting second-hand garment, or a technique or color combination, I’ll look for a way to add my own spin to it and make it even more interesting.

Is there a message you’d like to convey through fashion?

I get the sense that young people today spend money on their oshi (their favorite idol, character, or group), but not on themselves. But in my opinion, you should be your own oshi first. When I was young—and really this hasn’t changed—I was constantly buying clothes. It’s fun to wear a variety of clothes, and I hope people will experience that pleasure through fashion.

Is there anything you’d like to say to the younger generation aspiring to work in the fashion industry?

Being a fashion designer is a tough job. Nowadays you can design with AI, and if you don’t mind looking like everyone else, there’s no need to make anything. But I hope people will do exactly what they want, freely and without constraint. It’s interesting to approach clothing as an artist, valuing your own distinctive sensibility. Most of my interests are connected to my work, but I also traveled often and loved finding something unique on a trip, then incorporating it into the clothing I designed. I hope young people today will place importance on bringing their own sensibility, their own perspective, to the things they make and do. Another thing is that many people don’t seem to know the designers and styles that defined specific periods. It’s good to study the history of fashion, because through that history, you learn the vocabulary for techniques and styles. Understanding what came before is essential to knowing what’s truly new. I hope young people will engage with and absorb all sorts of things, including those from the past, through their own eyes.

(*1) TSUMORI CHISATO 2026 Spring/Summer Collection Online Order
September 5 (Fri) – 12 (Friday) noon / https://tsumorichisato.shop-pro.jp/
(*2) 35th Anniversary TSUMORI CHISATO ♡♡ GRATITUDE ♡♡♡
Special exhibition showcasing 35 years of TSUMORI CHISATO’s creative vision
September 1 (Mon) – 6 (Sat) / Shibuya Hikarie 8F 8/COURT and 8/CUBE 1, 2, 3