Today marked the third day of the 2027 S/S season for Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO (Rakuten FWT) organized by the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO).

–  Brands presented on Wednesday, September 2nd  –
yushokobayashi (from 8:00 PM) Shibuya Hikarie, Hikarie Hall, Hall A

Yushokobayashi, past winner of the TOKYO FASHION AWARD 2026, held its second show at Rakuten FWT. Play director Masaya Okamoto once again joined this year’s runway to serve as the show’s director. The collection’s theme “Mermaid’s Tears” featured a venue decorated in seaweed, crumbling palace columns, and bubbles that evoked the dwelling place of mermaids. Designer Kobayashi explained that he arrived at the mermaid theme after an acquaintance told him, “You’re always holed up down under ground.” Every show by yushokobayashi never fails to deliver an interesting story. This time around, the designer weaved a tale of mermaids come ashore who experienced various sorrows in exchange for the feet to walk on land.

The mermaids suffer and encounter sadness for the first time when they realize the droplets on their cheeks are not seawater, but tears. Upon returning to the ocean the streaks of tears remain on their cheeks. During this scene, two mermaids yet to experience the surface world observe their return from the corridor. At the show’s climax, they take off their shoes and climb onto the land they’ve longed for, despite the sheering pain. The other sisters who have experienced what lies ahead, watch over them quietly. The collection featured mermaid-like charm in the softly shimmering sequined dresses gleaming like scales, a friendly knitted octopus bag, and a lace patchwork hoodie resembling a collection of treasures. Designer Kobayashi explained that he wanted to create brighter and poppier looks this time, though the dark chill of an aquarium seemed to linger.

With three-dimensional cuts and their signature knitwear crafted from cotton for a spring/summer feel, the range of creative expression seemed to expand even more than last time. This season, work was divided between designer Kobayashi, who handled woven fabrics while designer Uehara took charge of knitwear, adding even more depth to the brand.

“We want to take on even bigger stages and try all sorts of new things,” the yusho team said with beaming smiles. Although designer Kobayashi had teased their show with ominous statements, stating “What must I sacrifice to rise to the surface?”—the joyful smiles of the yusho girls in attendance captured a very different mood, exuding a heavenly radiance.

– Brands presented on Thursday, September 3rd  –
*Partnership Show
TAIWAN SELECT (from 11:00 AM) Shibuya Hikarie, Hikarie Hall, Hall B

Taiwan Select, a platform organized and operated by the Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF) to promote Taiwan’s fashion industry globally, hosted a joint show featuring two brands with highly distinct aesthetics—S’ranouir and Yentity.

S’ranouir, which captivated the audience with its black-and-white collection, incorporated original metal hardware crafted by Taiwanese artisans into designs that could be styled in a multitude of ways.

On the other hand, the originality of Yentity’s collection lied within its versatile silhouette—such as garments able to transform into a cape when the hood was removed. As a brand, Yentity offers workwear that is both practical and elegant, designed for women to wear comfortably at work. The collection drew inspiration from Carl Jung’s concepts of “Anima and Animus.” The lemon-and-vase print that closed the show was reportedly based on photographs taken by the designer themself.

RequaL≡ (Recall) (from 12:00 PM) Shibuya Hikarie, Hikarie Hall, Hall A

Marking the 10th anniversary of its founding, RequaL≡ held its first fashion show since its 2023 A/W season. Positioned as a project to reconstruct the brand’s 10-year journey and its origins, the show’s theme was “(re)code × (re)member.” The brand reexamined its very essence through superimposing both its past and present. With “rewriting memory and code” as a key concept, this commemorative show spanned the timeline of past, present, and future through collaborations with 10 different creators the designer admired and accompanied him in his artistic journey.

Among them were Mr. Nakagawa of “Banal Chic Bizarre”—a brand that designer Doi has long admired—Mr. Yoshida of “KEISUKEYOSHIDA,” a contemporary of Doi’s, and “Overlace,” with whom Doi shares a connection as fellow natives of the same region. “Without fashion, I wouldn’t be myself. It’s not so much a job as it is a way of life. I hope to cherish both myself and the brand with love, while also valuing my own life,” stated designer Doi. During the press conference, he would step close to the reporters asking questions and respond intimately as if engaging in a deep conversation—a gesture that spoke to the strength of a brand that has endured for 10 years. At the end of the show, Doi sprinted down the runway, noticeably wearing a pair of AI-powered Meta glasses. A video shot from Doi’s perspective during this moment is scheduled to be released on social media soon, so stay tuned.

MIZEN (from 1:30 PM) IMAGE STUDIO 109, Yotsuya Studio

Participating for the brand’s second time, MIZEN showed three core patterns in a presentation format following the theme “WHAT 38CM TELLS.”

MIZEN is known for its fabric rolls produced to a standardized width of 38 cm, a constraint which the brand has always managed to tailor its garments in. A video was featured explaining the process, including a breakdown of the three unique patterns they use—the “Slash,” which cuts the fabric diagonally; the “Horizon,” cut in a cape-like style to cover the shoulders; and the “Sash,” reminiscent of a cross-body sash—the brand transformed every fabric roll into various modern garments, from bralettes to coats.

Haute Mode Hirata (from 3:00 PM) Haute Mode Hirata, Ltd.

Last year, Haute Mode Hirata generated a buzz with its 2026 S/S season show in which hats were the star of the show. Returning this season, the brand unveiled its new collection in a presentation format set in a much more intimate space. In line with their previous show, the brand once again showcased the appeal of hats, creating complete outfits that put them front and center.

The venue was the brand’s atelier and office. With works by “saki et show,” “H.at,” and “Akio Hirata OHKO” on display, the space felt like a museum purely dedicated to hats. In the courtyard, numerous pure-white hats were suspended at regular intervals, appearing to float in midair. This was described as a self-homage to an installation first unveiled at an exhibition held at Spiral in Omotesando in 2011.

The models walked at a leisurely pace, gazing at the hats displayed as if they were admiring works of art in a museum. Though they elegantly strode about, holding a show pamphlet or glass in hand, viewers could not help but be drawn exclusively to the models’ heads. The hats from Haute Mode Hirata seemed to possess a mysterious power that imbued even the model’s gaze with a sense of narrative. Simply wearing one of these hats added a touch of sophistication to their entire look.

For this event, up-and-coming designers such as designer Koki Enomoto of ATTACHMENT and designer Akiko Aoki of AKIKOAOKI provided styling support.

C JEAN (from 5:00 PM) Shibuya Hikarie, 8th Floor, 8/ COURT

Taiwan based brand C JEAN held its first-ever presentation in Tokyo. The event used immersive staging to convey to the audience the process by which clothing is created. The atmosphere of the brand’s atelier was creatively reproduced in the venue. Staff members operated sewing machines and worked on mannequins, depicting the daily routine in the workshop. As models emerged from the back of the venue, the designer gave instructions for hair and makeup, which was applied on the spot. The team demonstrated the process of refining a simple, dress-shaped toile into its final form by adding ruffles and making cuts.

CHARINYEH (from 6:00 PM) Shibuya Hikarie, Hikarie Hall, Hall B

CHARINYEH, a designer brand with over 40 years of history in Taiwan, made its debut at Rakuten FWT. Creative Director Yeh Cha-Rin visited Japan and held the brand’s first-ever show in Tokyo. The collection chose the theme of “Island Tides,” drawing on the relaxed atmosphere unique to Taiwan—an island surrounded by ocean. The collection playfully featured various motifs of marine life, including silhouettes and embellishments directly inspired by creatures in Taiwan’s waters—such as octopuses from Penghu, rare white dolphins, and coral.

The humor was undeniable, featuring designs in which octopus legs became three-dimensional skirts, or coral transformed into spiky knitwear.

When asked why she chose to present her collection in Tokyo this time, she replied with a smile that showed no sign of fatigue: “It took me 40 years to expand the market within Taiwan, but I wanted to look beyond our borders. I wanted to use my participation in Fashion Week as an opportunity to share Taiwanese culture with the world.” She noted that her designs are currently available at 23 stores in Taiwan, including company-owned locations. The reporters, who were beginning to lose steam on the fourth day of Fashion Week, seemed to draw new energy from the vitality of 75 year old designer Yeh.

C JEAN is hosting the exhibition “THREE QUIET ROOMS”

The Taiwan based brand C JEAN, which held a presentation today, is currently hosting an exhibition titled “THREE QUIET ROOMS” at 8/CUBE 1, 2, 3 on the 8th floor of Shibuya Hikarie. The exhibition features works that reinterpret the lacquer art of Taiwanese lacquer artist Wang Qing-shuang (Recipient of the Order of the Rising Sun, Gold and Silver Rays Imperial decoration) into contemporary clothing, as well as bags created through a three-generation collaboration between Wang Qing-shuang, his son Wang Xian-zhi, and his grandson Wang Jun-wei.

Additionally, in collaboration with Hiroyuki Kanbayashi, a roketsu dyeing artisan from Kyoto’s internationally recognized workshop “Some-moto Shobien,” the exhibition featured garments crafted from roketsu-dyed fabrics the artist dyed themself, presenting a new relationship between traditional craftsmanship and contemporary fashion. Visitors can view the works up close at the venue, so please come and experience their beauty in person.

Influencers invited by “Pickyou”post about the show

Continuing on from last season, we’ve teamed up with the C2C marketplace “Pickyou” to capture and share the real-life experiences of Rakuten FWT from a Gen Z perspective.

This time, Pickyou has invited a selection of fashion influencers to attend the shows of 11 different brands. Posts documenting the shows and outfits are scheduled to appear on the influencers’ respective accounts.