As the owner and buyer of a renowned store in Berlin that carries 200 international brands, Andreas Murkudis is one of the most well-known and experienced retailers in Germany in the fields of design and fashion. In March 2025, he visited Japan to attend Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 2025 A/W through the JFWO Invitation program. In this interview, we ask Murkudis, an enthusiast for all things Japan, to share his impressions of Japanese brands and fashion weeks around the world.

We hear that you are a big fan of Tokyo and have visited Japan many times. What is it about the city that you find so appealing?

Tokyo never fails to inspire me. I’m constantly struck by the design, craftsmanship, history, architecture, food—every element and every scene. One time, I even bought 30 kilograms of books to bring home; that’s how much I enjoy shopping here. It’s a city where I find myself wanting everything I see. Even on small streets, I come across window displays and designs that blend different cultures together in unexpected ways. I had a wonderful time shopping on this trip, too, and will be posting about my purchases on Instagram soon.
Tokyo is full of kind people and talented artisans, creators, and designers—it feels like everything has been thoughtfully put together. These are the reasons I love this city and this country so much.

You’ve attended many runway shows and visited various showrooms. Are there any brands that have stood out to you so far, as of today (March 21)?

I was most struck by pillings. Their show was incredible! I had never seen their collection before, so I went to their showroom afterward, where I was amazed by the variety of their knitwear. And the quality is astounding—almost a kind of “knitwear couture.” I will definitely be buying from pillings.

HYKE, which I’ve had my eye on for several seasons, was also great. They don’t do fashion shows in Europe, but their clothes are so good I’m willing to come here for them. I enjoyed the dancehall venue and atmosphere of the interior at the FETICO show, and there were a few pieces I’d like to stock. Unfortunately, I was not as moved by BASICKS. Another beautiful show was TELMA, which I just saw. The dresses and coats designed by the Dries van Noten-trained designer were stunning. And there are a few brands I’m still looking forward to seeing, like Chika Kisada.

I’m happy to hear that you’ve had such positive discoveries here. What kind of factors shape your decision to buy from a brand?

My store currently stocks 200 brands; inside, you will find somewhere between 5,000 and 7,000 items. Sometimes, I have the urge to cut the number of items in half, but I can’t cast away brands I’ve already established relationships with. What this means is that I need to have very strict standards when buying from new brands.
But the decision of whether to buy or not is easy—it takes me maybe just two minutes. I decide based on whether I personally like something or not, rather than for commercial reasons. I used to work at an art museum, where I learned how to look and observe, and I’ve had a long career as a buyer. Even now, I’m not buying from pillings because I know for certain that there are people who will want their clothes. I’m buying from them because I like their clothes. This is the basis of my decision. I only buy clothes that I want to wear myself or see my friends wearing.

What about when you are selecting a specific product?

I have a conversation with the designer first before looking at the item. Hearing the designers speak about their work—about how and where the materials are sourced, how the item is produced—is what really matters. The price is less important. Even a setup that costs 2,000 euros is doable, because I have regulars who will want it, just like me.

Are there any developments in the fashion industry you are paying attention to?

I have zero interest in trends. Being sensitive to trends is not who I am. My store stocks brands with 200 years of history on one hand and, on the other, brands that were only established 2 years ago. I want to sell clothes that can be worn for a long time and that are not driven by trends. The cost of living is very high these days, and this is part of the reason I’d like to introduce people to clothes that, with care, will last.

What was your impression about Tokyo Fashion Week in relation to other fashion weeks, such as those in Paris, Milan, and London?

Paris hosts a massive fashion week where you can see a huge number of brands at once. I think it would be great if the Tokyo Fashion Week expanded to include more local brands. That would draw international buyers to Japan and encourage them to buy from Japanese brands.
It would also be interesting to see foreign brands do their shows in Tokyo. This city holds many unique opportunities—in a city as rare as this, with delicious food, delightful shops, and a stimulating cityscape, it should be entirely possible to bring more people together and create a fashion week even more vibrant than in London or Milan. It would be wonderful to see the Japanese government supporting designers from abroad who want to show in Japan to create a fashion festival with people from all around the world.

What do you think it will take for Japanese brands to become more prominent internationally?

There are many incredible fashion designers in Japan, and yet no fashion museum in the country—this is a problem. There is no major museum, like the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York or the Paris Galliera, to exhibit the work of Japanese designers. By creating such a place that brings together and showcases the different roots of Japanese fashion history, more people will become interested in Japanese fashion both domestically and internationally. It would give the fashion industry a lot of energy to have this kind of place, especially in collaboration with Tokyo Fashion Week. Such fashion museums are increasingly common in surrounding Asian countries, and they are hosting major exhibitions. Japan should be proud of its fashion—both as a cultural heritage and as a vital industry—and I hope to see such efforts take place, especially with the support of the government.