Since debuting with the 2021 AW collection, Anna Choi has been a driving force behind the rapid rise of the brand HAENGNAE. Her collections, molded by expressive power and a solid identity cultivated through diverse cultural experiences, have created a unique universe that resonates with women across generations. We caught up with her in Paris, where she recently unveiled her new brand, ANNA CHOI at the Paris showroom after winning the TOKYO FASHION AWARD 2024, marking an exciting new chapter in her creative journey and offering a glimpse of even greater things on the horizon.

What inspired you to become a designer?

After graduating from elementary school, my grandmother took me to Paris for the first time. She guided me through the maison flagship stores and museums, saying, ‘You don’t need to understand everything now. Just go and see the real thing.’ It was there that I discovered the world of haute couture, distinct from everyday fashion. This experience, combined with my lifelong love of clothing, drawing, creating, and self-expression, naturally inspired me to pursue a career as a fashion designer.

I think you have taken a unique approach to building your career.

I initially attended a four-year women’s college, but during my studies, I developed a strong passion for working with my hands, so at the age of 20, I decided to study at an art school in New York City. After attending both language school and art school, I had planned to continue my education at a fashion school. However, I discovered that many American fashion schools rely on sewing staff for production, meaning I wouldn’t be able to sew myself. Determined to master every step of the creative process, from concept to completion, I decided to enroll at Bunka Fashion College, where I could gain hands-on experience with sewing machines and learn the intricate processes involved in garment-making. In New York, I was encouraged to explore my own ideas and effectively communicate them to others, which helped me win the Soen Award and several other competitions. One of those prizes was the Kobe Fashion Contest, which gave me the opportunity to study abroad for a year at Nottingham College of Art and Design in England. There, I immersed myself in European culture while working on my graduation project, which I later presented in London.

And you started up HAENGNAE right away after graduation?

I originally aspired to work for a European maison brand, but with international travel restricted due to the COVID-19 pandemic, I decided to launch HAENGNAE in the 2021 AW season. Although I had no prior experience running a brand, I had a clear vision from the start, which I’ve carefully refined step by step to this day. My focus is on crafting products with deep consideration for the emotions of those who wear them. I personally wear each piece multiple times, refining them through trial and error, while also incorporating direct customer feedback gathered from my time working in-store. I strive for meticulous attention to detail, ensuring comfort, easy maintenance, and designs that suit all body types.

Everything seems to be going smoothly, but in the three and a half years since the brand’s launch, have there been any moments of doubt or uncertainty along the way?

I wouldn’t describe it as uncertainty, but one thing I realized early on was that building the brand isn’t just about me as a designer, and it is only possible through the support and collaboration of many people. For the sake of those who believe in and support me, I feel a strong responsibility to take the lead and wholeheartedly pursue the vision I’ve set.

How do you feel now reflecting on your first runway show in March 2024?

I’m truly grateful I did it, and the show possesses a unique charm that makes me want to relive the experience. I believe we were able to fully express ourselves in that moment, thanks to the incredible team involved, led by the visionary direction of Yoshio Wakatsuki.

My goal was to create a show that seamlessly blended classic and modern elements—like a sensory stage performance that engaged sight, sound, and even smell. I designed a square stage layout to encourage the audience to focus on a single perspective, rather than the movement of a traditional catwalk, and enhanced the experience with fragrances and live cello music. The show not only captivated the audience but also had a positive impact on the business side of the company.

You presented your new brand “ANNA CHOI” this time in Paris. Could you tell us about your aims in this regard?

I have continued crafting one-of-a-kind pieces, but this time I showcased them as the haute couture collection “ANNA CHOI.” While my vision remains unchanged, the approach differs: with HAENGNAE, the pieces are designed with the customer in mind after their creation, whereas with ANNA CHOI, each piece is co-created with the customer and tailored exclusively for them.

The concept for this debut collection was inspired by the ballet Giselle, which I saw at the Paris Opera in June. The story of a pure white dress that initially appears glamorous, like a wedding gown, but is, in fact, a death shroud deeply resonated with my vision. Even in this first collection, which seems light and delicate at a glance, we infused a strong sense of resolve and the will to start anew. I also emphasized elements that cannot typically be highlighted in prêt-à-porter, focusing on intricate specifications and details. This included the use of premium materials, such as silk tulle and pearl embroidery, specially sourced from Paris.

It is now the third day since the official announcement. How do you envision the future development of the brand?

After showcasing my work, I was reminded of my love for prêt-à-porter, pieces designed for everyday wear, and my appreciation for intricate haute couture, where I can sense the individuality of the person behind it. While this presentation focused solely on haute couture, my goal for the next season is to blend prêt-à-porter with haute couture. With vibrant party scenes in Europe and New York, I see exciting opportunities to explore in these areas. Moving forward, I am committed to continuous learning and growth, striving to gain the experience needed to have my work featured in influential stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, Liberty, and Le Bon Marché—places that have deeply shaped my journey.

What areas do you want to challenge as a designer?

The world of haute couture is incredibly profound, and the place I aspire to reach is still ahead of me. I am eager to immerse myself in learning these techniques. As long as opportunities arise, I want to absorb as much as possible and use that knowledge as inspiration for my couture creations.

The world is already filled with amazing things, including clothing, so there’s no need to create something that merely imitates someone else’s work. What’s essential is to create something that is uniquely my own, something only I can bring to life. I believe designers carry the responsibility to pursue that individuality and originality.

Interview by Tomoko Kawasaki
Photography by kazumi Miyamae