Takuro Togasawara, one of Japan’s most prominent fashion journalists, travels the globe attending fashion weeks worldwide. Takenori Osawa, known for his keen eye for style, leads the legendary select shop MIDWEST , which showcases domestic brands at various events and has cultivated a devoted following. In Paris, we spoke with these two industry figures—each involved in fashion week from their respective positions—about the must-see events of Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 25AW.

How often do you attend international fashion weeks?

Ogasawara: I attend both the men’s and women’s collections every season. For the 25AW season, I’m in Milan and Paris. After this interview, I’m heading to the Hodakova show and The Row presentation.

Osawa: Before the pandemic, I attended every season without fail for something like 25 years, but this January and March mark my long-awaited return to Paris since COVID-19. This time, I plan to see about 60 brands.

What brands have stood out to you during the 25AW season so far?

Ogasawara: Assuming we’re talking both domestically and internationally, KIDILL made the biggest impression on me. Their show coincided with LOUIS VUITTON, so I caught the rehearsal instead. It was incredibly emotional. I admire their uncompromising commitment to creating exactly what they envision. Luxury brand shows have increasingly become symbols of wealth and hierarchy, full of people who just want to show off or post on Instagram. As fashion shows turn into marketing spectacles, I find that the brands driven by emotion are the ones that truly capture the essence of fashion. Right now, young designers in particular are presenting very strong collections, including in Japan, so I make a point to watch them closely.
For women’s collections, I’ve been following Vaquera for the past few seasons. Their clothes are girly and playful, but with a streetwear edge. Their show this season, on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, was impressive.

Osawa: MIHARA YASUHIRO really stood out to me. I’ve been carrying their clothes since the brand’s early days, but this year, their show was held in an enormous venue—quite incredible—and attracted a large number of international buyers. When a Japanese brand first debuts in Paris, it’s almost inevitable that the front row will be filled with Japanese attendees. doublet is an example of a brand that started this way but has since found great success internationally. Having known and worked with them for a long time through their ups and downs, seeing their growth makes me very happy.

Which of the brands showing in Tokyo are most noteworthy?

Ogasawara: After reviewing the 2025 Spring/Summer season, I’d say there are three Japanese brands with the potential to take off. The first is TELMA—the designer has experience at Dries Van Noten, and the quality is exceptional. The second is Chika Kisada, whose vision of femininity is strikingly powerful. And finally, mister it., a brand featured in the TOKYO FASHION AWARD showroom in Paris. mister it.。mister it. is rooted in craftsmanship, and the designer has an excellent sense of style. If the right stores take notice, I believe the brand could attract significant international orders.

At MIDWEST, what brands are showing momentum?

Osawa: Among the women’s brands, Chika Kisada stands out. For menswear, I’d say DAIRIKU, KAMIYA and M A S U. There is a cohort of designers in their thirties leading the wasy for the next generation.

What percentage of your customers are international visitors?

Osawa: It’s relatively low—20 percent or so. The majority of our sales come from domestic repeat customers. People often tell me that I could grow sales by catering more to international customers, but my priority is taking care of our customers in Japan.

Which brands are you most excited to see during Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 25AW?

Ogasawara: I’m keeping an eye on TELMA, Chika Kisada, and yoshiokubo who recently returned from Nepal. He told me himself that it would be a fun show, so I’m excited to see how his experiences in the Himalayas are reflected in his collection.

Osawa: For me, it’s FETICO, VIVIANO and Tamme showing for the first time. Tamme’s clothes are best appreciated in motion rather than through lookbooks. I’ve carried the brand since its debut so I’m looking forward to the show. The designer used to be at sacai and worked closely under Chitose Abe. It’s the closing show of the 25AW season, so I hope you’ll come too, Ogasawara!

What is the allure of fashion shows?

Osawa: I love attending shows. Some buyers prioritize runway shows, while others focus on showrooms, but personally, I make a point of arriving early and seeing many runway presentations.
A fashion show is a fleeting moment—just a few minutes—during which you can truly feel the designer’s passion and dedication poured into their collection for six months. I love experiencing the energy and mood of a brand through the atmosphere of the show. As a buyer, I’m always watching for new elements—what feels fresh, how the balance has shifted—while also considering the collection’s commercial viability. I want to catch these developments as early as possible. Showrooms are where I evaluate whether a product holds up to its price, but runway shows are, for me, the true barometer for a brand’s future potential.