RakutenFWT 2023 S/S | Report
“Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO (hereinafter indicated as Rakuten FWT) 2023 S/S” (governing body: Japan Fashion Week Organization, hereinafter indicated as JFWO), was held, mainly at the main venues of Shibuya Hikarie and Omotesando Hills, between August 29th (Mon.) ~ September 3rd (Sat.), with shows or installations by a total of 49 brands.
Although this season was again carried out amid the ongoing corona pandemic, of the 49 total presentations, 27 were physical presentations and 22 were digital. Also, among the 49 brands, 15 brands were first-time participants, and there were 5 brands from 4 overseas areas participants.
This season again, “by R”, the support program by Rakuten Fashion, the title sponsor, was carried out. This season, yoshiokubo and ANREALAGE participated through support, and brought about grave reactions.
Furthermore, this season, JFWO launched a new program to support next generation brands, and the season started with an opening show by “FETICO”, the award-winning brand of the “
JFW NEXT BRAND AWARD” Physical division, followed by a prize-awarding ceremony. It was a befitting glamorous opening of the term, one which made people feel the strength of “fashion”.
Thanks to the cooperation of participating brands and all persons involved, although there were many restrictions, under continued strengthening of prevention of infection spread, the 6-day event finished without incident.
We would like to take this opportunity to once again extend our most sincere gratitude to all.
Key points of the 2023S/S season
( 1 ) New methods of expression due to expansions in designer support programs/increase of newsworthiness
■JFW NEXT BRAND AWARD
The very first show by “FETICO”, the grand-prix award-winning brand of the “JFW NEXT BRAND AWARD 2023” Physical division, a new brand support program launched by JFWO starting this 2023 S/S season, was held at the official venue of Shibuya Hikarie, opening all events of this season.
The judges of the JFW NEXT BRAND AWARD 2023 are, Mr. Teppei Fujita (‘SULVAM’ designer), Mr. Tomotaka Koizumi (‘TOMO KOIZUMI’ designer), Ms. Yukino Takakura (Hearst Digital Japan Co., Ltd., ELLE JAPON Fashion Editor), Ms. Nami Demizu (The Mainichi Newspaper Co., Ltd., Liberal Arts Department Chief Director), Mr. Tasuku Minoshima (INFAS PUBLICATION, INC., WWD JAPAN Writer) (in no particular order / without honorifics). As a result of all these judges participating to make a strict judgement, “FETICO” was selected to be this year’s grand-prix winner.
After the show, a prize-awarding ceremony was held, and a memento was awarded from the JFWO secretary- general. Because this award provides year-round support, “FETICO” will continue to receive support for the next 23A/W season, scheduled for next March. Please keep your eye on them.
Furthermore, “HAENGNAE” and “natsumiosawa”, who were selected as the “JFW NEXT BRAND AWARD
2023” Special Recognition Award, carried out an exhibit at the official venue of Shibuya Hikarie, CUBE, for three days during the term, from August 29th (Mon.) ~ August 31st (Wed.). ※Photo is that of the first day, when the judges visited the venue.
■Start of the Digital Division, the “JFW DIGITAL GRAND PRIX”
Also starting this season is the digital division of JFW’s new brand support program, the “JFW DIGITAL GRAND PRIX”. The grand-prix will be selected by qualitative assessment of collection contents, work, expressionism (artistry), etc. by a screening committee, along with viewing frequency in the Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO Official YouTube account (during a selected time period). All these aspects will be taken into consideration and discussed by the judges and thereby selected. The award-winner is scheduled to be announced in mid-September.
The aim is to provide support to brands participating digitally, and to promote further attention.
■Agency for Cultural Affairs, Government of Japan (projects hosted by/co-hosted by the Japan Expo)
In continuation from last year, during the RakutenFWT 2023 S/S term, the following three programs were carried out as a part of the “Japan Expo”, being promoted by the Japanese Government, hosted by the Agency for Cultural Affairs, Government of Japan, the Japan Arts Council, and JFWO.
M A S U (September 1st, 16:00~)
WATARU TOMINAGA. (September 2nd. 16:00~)
kudos/soduk (September 3rd, 16:00~)
■Live streaming / open on YouTube
Presentation contents of all participating brands have been notified on the official WEB site , and for brands who wish for it, physical presentations were streamed live. All archive videos can be viewed at the below YouTube channel.
■Brands presenting digitally
From the platform of “fusing of digital and physical” we have been nurturing amid the corona pandemic, in the 2023 S/S season, digital presentations of 22 brands were transmitted widely, both national and internationally. Please keep your eye on digital presentations in which methods of expression keep evolving every season. All presentations can be viewed at the YouTube channel introduced above.
■Creating of a seasonal movie, with an original theme song written by Mr. Taichi Mukai
Rakuten FWT’s very first original season theme song, “Fun!”, has been realized being written by the artist, Mr. Taichi Mukai. It has turned out to be a fresh, pop song, befitting the S/S season. In synch with the song, an original movie has been created by Mr. Kazuki Gotanda, a collage artist with a unique worldview. An illustration from a scene in the movie has been used as the main visual, displayed widely both nationally and internationally, centering around the main venues of Shibuya Hikarie and Omotesando Hills, to promote Rakuten FWT.
Season Promotion Movie
Music「Fun!」 by Taichi Mukai
( Lyrics: Taichi Mukai/MUSIC: Taichi Mukai, CELSIOR COUPE / Arrange: Kai Takahashi) Collage, Animation: Kazuki Gotanda
Mr. Mukai (left) and Mr. Gotanda, both visited show venues during the term.
■Continuation of DIGITAL VOICE
Continuation of “DIGITAL VOICE”, which spreads excitement through SNS throughout the term. Various projects utilizing SNS, designed to enliven the event, such as “DIGITAL VOICE RECOMMENDATION” in which, fashion journalists, editors, buyers, etc. comment on highlights of a collection or notice worthy items, and “DIGITAL VOICE SNAP”, in which influencers, models who are active both nationally and internationally, make an appearance wearing clothes of participating brands, before the collections of each brand is presented.
DIGITAL VOICE RECOMMENDATION
■Support program by 2023 S/S Official Partner
CONVERSE supports participating designer with shoes
During the term, CONVERSE JAPAN CO., LTD., the Official Partner of RakutenFWT and CONVERSE, provided “ALL STAR®” shoes, the standard model representing the brand, to the show of firs-time participant, genzai .
Designer utilizing the shoes
genzai August 31st (Wed.) 17:00~〜
■Announcing of the award-winning designers of the “FASHION PRIZE OF TOKYO 2023” and the “TOKYO FASHION AWARD 2023”
The award-winning designer of the “FASHION PRIZE OF TOKYO”, a fashion prize project to help promote further developments of Tokyo fashion designers who are acknowledged both nationally and internationally, along with the award-winning designers of the “TOKYO FASHION AWARD”, a fashion award aimed at supporting fashion designers based in Tokyo to leap out to the world and expand business globally, was announced on the last day of Rakuten FWT 2023 S/S.
Award-winning designer of the 5th “FASHION PRIZE OF TOKYO”
Designer: Tomotaka Koizumi Brand name: TOMO KOIZUMI
The 8th “TOKYO FASHION AWARD” Designers receiving support for the Paris Men’s Fashion Week term
Yu Kobayashi / Yuji Abe (IRENISA)
KHOKI Design Team (KHOKI)
Sayori Tanaka / Akira Kuboshita (TANAKA)
BIANKA / Yashige Yuto (TENDER PERSON)
The 8th “TOKYO FASHION AWARD” Designers receiving support for the Paris Women’s Fashion Week term
Akiko Aoki (AKIKOAOKI)
Emi Funayama (FETICO)
Yumika Oka (INSCRIRE)
Viviano Sue (VIVIANO)
Photo upper row, left to right: Yuji Abe (IRENISA), Yu Kobayashi (IRENISA)), Shuichi Ozawa from KHOKI Design Team, Sayori Tanaka (TANAKA), Akira Kuboshita (TANAKA), BIANKA (TENDER PERSON), Yashige Yuto (TENDER PERSON)
Photo lower row, left to right: Akiko Aoki (AKIKOAOKI), Emi Funayama (FETICO), Yumika Oka (INSCRIRE), Viviano Sue (VIVIANO)
■Ms. Neru Nagahama, appointed again this season as the SDGs reporter An Official Rakuten FWT 2023 S/S season original official eco-bag, produced for the first time in two years
Ms. Neru Nagahama participated this season again as the “SDGs reporter”. For the first time this season, she challenged designing the official eco-bag for the Rakuten FWT 2023 S/S season. In addition to carrying out interviews as a reporter, she enlivened fashion week by visiting a variety of shows.
With the cooperation of KOMATSU MATERE Co., Ltd., a fabrics manufacturer developing state-of-the-art fabric materials / owning advanced fabric processing technology, which Ms. Neru Nagahama interviewed and visited their exhibit in the 2022 A/W season, she designed the official eco-bag, produced in 3 sizes, 4 colors, made utilizing scraps of hygiene merchandise developed by KOMATSU MATERE. This eco-bag had given away as a gift at official venues, related events, present campaigns of Rakuten FWT Official SNS Accounts ( Instagram / Twitter ), etc.
■First time participants, HIDESIGN, BASICKS , presented their very first fashion show of a collection based on sustainable materials
■ Carrying out of the 2nd, upcycling of fishing nets project by “DAIWA”
As part two of the upcycling of fishing nets project launched last season by the fishing brand, “DAIWA”, the ‘BE-EARTH-FRIENDLY’ – the Upcycling of Fishing Nets, Inter-industrial Cooperation Project, a project in cooperation with Bunka Gakuen University, an educational institution specializing in fashion, and Tokyo University of Arts, a national general arts university, was carried out. Students of Bunka Gakuen University have created clothing utilizing upcycled fishing net materials. During the term, on September 1st, a presentation ceremony to announce award-winning pieces was held. In addition to an exhibit until September 3rd, at the official venue of Shibuya Hikarie COURT, in a space constructed by the students of Tokyo University of Arts, the first-place winning item is scheduled to be commercialized and sold at D-VEC TOKYO EXCLUSIVE. Second and third-place items will continue to be exhibited at the DAIWA Apparel Showroom, after the Rakuten FWT 2023 term has ended.
Judges (left to right): Ms. Chizuru Mukou, WWD JAPAN Executive Editor, Sustainability Director / Mr. Hiroshi Komoda, JFW Secretary-General / Mr. Tsutomu Sasaki, D-VEC Creative Director TSUTSU STUDIO / Ms. Naomi Trauden, / Mr. Kenichi Kobayashi, GLOBERIDE, Inc. CEO, Fishing Sales and Marketing Division, Apparel Marketing Chief Director
SDGs reporter, Ms. Neru Nagahama, visiting the venue and studiously listening
( 4 ) Overseas participants from 4 areas around the world
From overseas, first time participants,LEVER COUTURE (Ukraine) , AFROMATIC TOKYO (Africa), PH MODE x TYO by MFF(Philippines)gave physical presentations. Furthermore, with Seivson (Taiwan) and (A)crypsis® (Taiwan) participating digitally, overseas brands from 4 areas around the world participated.
To overseas media (“VOGUE US”, “VOGUE ITALY”, “BoF”, “THE WALL STREET JOURNAL”, “CNN style”, “FASHION WEEK ONLINE ®”, etc.) still unable to travel to Japan due to the continuing corona pandemic, we have provided them with daily newsletters in English, along with visual materials, to continue in our efforts in strengthening global transmission. Also, for the first time in three years since the 2020 S/S season, Mr. Nick Wooster, judge of the TOKYO FASHION AWARD, visited Japan. In addition to visiting TOKYO FASHION AWARD nominee brands, he visited a variety of shows, exhibitions, etc.
Mr. Nick Wooster
■ Opening of the “FUDGE 20th Anniversary Gallery”
A gallery project looking back at the visuals of the fashion magazine, “FUDGE”, celebrating their 20th anniversary this year, was held at the official venue of Shibuya Hikarie CUBE. With original panels, Instagram campaign in which one can receive a gift, digital magazines exclusive to the venue, etc., it was a fun-filled content for all.
■BMW M 50TH ANNIVERSARY EXHIBITION
BMW held an event to celebrate the 50th anniversary of M. The event included a variety of activities hi-jacking Roppongi Hills, starting with a fusion runway show between fashion & M, a party, hands-on exhibition event, etc. On the first day, a fashion show was held, with RAINMAKER ,CINOH , YOHEI OHNO from Rakuten FWT, cooperating in providing costumes.
( 7 ) Further strengthening of protection again corona, including the introduction of “WeCALL”, a new, non-contact type invitation/guest management system matching today’s with corona lifestyle
Continuing on from last season, Rakuten FWT’s original guideline in infection prevention, the “Novelle Coronavirus (COVID-19) Infection Control Manual”, has been laid down, along with the thorough carrying out of taking temperature / sterilization / wearing of masks, setting of carbon dioxide concentration detection devices (cooperation; ASAHI KASEI CORPORATION) at official venues, antigen testing of related staff, etc. have been carried out. Furthermore, this season, under the cooperation of the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, as a non-contact type invitation/guest management system, “WeCALL”, a digital invitation service provided by GENEROSITY Inc. has been introduced at official venues. Everything from preregistering before the show, to managing of guests by an easy check-in of reading a QR code, all made possible upon the LINE application. In addition, utilizing the digital characteristics of this service, communication before/after the show with guests, and linking contents has been made possible.
With various award ceremonies and award-winning designer announcement ceremonies, starting with “JFW NEXT BRAND AWARD”, a new support program by JFW, runway shows of first-time participating brands, along with the start of selections of the digital grand prix of the “JFW DIGITAL GRAND PRIX”, this term turned out to be a season in which designers’ desire to improve themselves, their eagerness, and the passionate enthusiasm of both guests and viewers, could be felt. We are happy to be a platform for participating brands to present their collections, but we would be honored if we could convey the “attractiveness of fashion” to as many people as possible, through our variety of fashion related contents.
The next, “Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 2023 A/W” is scheduled to be held March 13th (Mon.) ~ March 18th (Sat.). We ask for your continued attention towards Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO.